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I recently bought a USB 7 Port Hub with external power supply, but unfortunately it got burnt out. I have searched everywhere using the keywords that I know but unfortunately can only find diy guides and hubs with supplies. The original cable that came with it is:

[this][1].

The hub is:

enter image description here

Giacomo1968
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Sanr
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    You say the power supply burned out, correct? In the U.S. this is typically called an AC power adapter and for a USB hub the output voltage would be something around 5V DC. That said, are you 100% sure the AC power adapter is what died? On many of these kinds of hubs, the hubs them selves burn out. Especially the connector that would be the receptacle for this AC power adapter. Just something to keep in mind as you attempt to fix this issue. – Giacomo1968 Sep 18 '15 at 17:18
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    I agree - I would definitely consider that the hub might have died. I have what appears to be an identical version of this one and it just recently stopped working correctly. I think in general these hubs have pretty low reliability. Note that for devices that don't need extra power, you can still connect them to your computer through this hub, so you should be able to verify whether the hub is the problem or not. If you have a voltmeter you can also check whether the AC power adapter is working or not. – kldavis4 Sep 18 '15 at 19:16
  • I'm right there with @Cano64 - I have this exact model of USB hub. I have two, in fact, because the first one arrived defective. It was the cheapest powered USB hub I could find. *IF* you don't need the power it supplies for the devices connected to it, you can probably use it safely enough running off PC power, but if you need the extra power, you should invest in a low-to-mid-range quality USB hub that isn't a $3 piece of junk. – Mar Sep 18 '15 at 22:15

3 Answers3

9

AC/DC power adapter or Wall power supply are the most common.

I suggest you contact the manufacturer for an exact replacement.

If not you can possibly match a generic replacement.

4 things that need to match or damage will result.

  1. DC voltage

  2. DC amps equal or higher

  3. Male plug polarity, center pin is either + or -

  4. Male plug size measured in Milimeters (mm)(outer diameter and center pin diameter)

If you cannot find one with proper male plug you can cut it off the old one and patch it into the new cord, be sure dc polarity is correct or you will smoke the device.

Example

Moab
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    Just reinforcing the "2.DC amps equal or higher" point, because it may sound dubious to someone with little experience. It really can be any amount that's higher. This is just the highest amount of power which the power adapter will survive. The actual amount of power that flows is determined by the hub. So even if you get a replacement where this number is 1000 times higher it will work perfectly fine. – Peter Sep 18 '15 at 21:09
  • More generally, that plug/socket type is referred to as a "barrel connector". – Bob Sep 19 '15 at 03:46
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This is a very generic AC to DC adapter. There is no specific name for it. All further assumptions are based on the pictures you have provided. Any damage or harm that can possibly occur is your own responsibility

The picture you have supplied is showing a standard 5V DC power adapter. The are very common and don't cost much.

To order the correct replacement you will need the following data:

  • Input voltage (in your case it seems to be 115 VAC)
  • Output voltage (in your case it is 5V DC)
  • Output polarity (in your case it is inner positive, outer negative)
  • Output current (can't read on the image, but has to be at least what your original adapter specifies or more, within reasonable margin)
  • Outer plug diameter (you will have to measure)
  • Inner plug diameter (you will have to measure)

Then just go on eBay and look for "5 VDC adapter x.x mm y.y mm" where x.x and y.y are inner and outer diameters in mm and make sure you pick one suitable for the location where you live (USA, i assume). And don't forget the polarity!

Also note, that if you have fried your previous adapter, there might be a fault in the actual hub which will result in too high current and fry any other adapter connected.

Art Gertner
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  • “…there might be a fault in the actual hub…” Bingo! Also, the original AC adapter might not be “fried” at all; it could be the HUB itself. – Giacomo1968 Sep 18 '15 at 17:26
  • There is a specific name for them, they're called "AC/DC Power Adapters". :) – Ƭᴇcʜιᴇ007 Sep 18 '15 at 17:42
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    Measuring the inner plug diameter is a lot harder than it sounds. It's usually too small to get a micrometer or pair of calipers in there. You might get lucky and find a piece of wire that fits (which can then be measured) if you have a fair amount of electronics scrap lying around (*cough* Jawa *cough*), but that doesn't seem likely in the OP's case. I would recommend buying an AC adapter that comes with a variety of interchangeable plugs in different sizes, like [this one](http://www.amazon.com/SoulBay®-Universal-Adapter-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B00ZTZQ5OQ). – dodgethesteamroller Sep 18 '15 at 20:17
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You did mention DIY, so let's offer a slightly different solution than the others, which you may or may not be comfortable with.

This adapter's plug is pretty easy to transfer to a different power adapter. Just cut the black cord of the broken power adapter with a scissor, then get the 2 wires out. They will be one red, one black. If there are 3 wires or if the colors don't match, you can abort at this time. All you lost is an already broken power adapter.

Then you need any other adapter which is

  1. Also a DC adapter.
  2. Has the same voltage, or is no more than 5% off in any direction.
  3. Allows equal or more Ampere to pass through than the original adapter. If the power is stated in Watts instead, divide the Watts by the Volts and you get the ampere. Multiply by 1000 to convert from ampere to milliampere.

If you are like me you'll have lots' of old power adapters lying around which belong to devices you no longer use, and one of them might match.

If you found a matching adapter, cut off the plug, look for the 2 red and black cables. Connect them to the 2 cables of the original adapter's plug. Isolate the ends with isolation tape, independently. Then put some isolation tape around the whole thing so that a cat or a child won't pull it apart.

You can now use the adapter.

The advantage of this method is that you can do it right now and don't have to wait for shipping.

Peter
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  • The problem with this method (for someone who doesn't know what they are doing) is there's a good chance you'll get the polarity wrong without a multimeter. In many adapters there is no red and black - just random colors, or a center wire and a mesh shield for ground around it. – Grant Sep 19 '15 at 01:01